All you need to know about diamonds

ROUGH DIAMONDS

This is the starting point for every diamond. It’s how we get them, straight from the mine. Rough diamonds can be divided in to two categories: Gem quality (later used for jewellery) and industrial quality (which later will be used in industrial machinery e.g. drills at the dentist’s office). In general, only 30% of the rough stones are gem quality and the rest is built for industrial use.

After deciding which gem quality you would like, you can assort them into two categories for production: makeable and sewable stones. The main difference between the two is the amount of stones you can polish from that one particular piece of rough. Makeable stones will give you one big (polished) stone and from sewable stones you’ll end up with two or more (polished stones).

The decision of the outcome will be decided by the shape of the rough diamond. When in doubt, the help of special 3D-scanning machines can be put to use. They can decide what is best done for the production of each individual stone.

THE 4 C'S OF POLISHED DIAMONDS

Diamond characteristics are divided into four main categories, all starting by the letter C.

Carat

This is the weight of the diamond, expressed in carats. One carat is the equivalent of 0,2 grams. Weights smaller than one carat are expressed in points. Half a carat is 50points or 0.50 carat. (Twenty points are written as 0.20 carat.)

Clarity

This scale talks about the impurities that the diamond contains. The scale goes from Internal Flawless (IF) where you can’t see any impurity with a magnifying glass (10x), to Pique (PIQ) where a trained eye could see the inclusions without any aid of a magnifying glass.

Color

The color scale of diamonds is expressed in letters, starting at the letter D and ending with Z. The scale goes from colourless (D) to light yellow (Z). All other colors are on the spectrum of what is called Fancy Colors. Examples of such colors are blue, pink, grey, brown, …

Cut

This part talks about the proportions of the polished facets, the symmetry and the overall finish of the stone. Together, they accenture the brightness, fire and scintillation (sparkle) of the stone. The grading scale goes from Excellent (being the best) to Poor (being the worst). Below you can find more information about different kind of cuts for polished stones.

DIFFERENT CUTS

There are many shapes that one can polish his diamonds in. We will give a little overview of the most common shapes.

Brilliant

This is the most known and sold shape. It is round, has 58 facets and consists of an upper part called “crown” and a bottom part called “pavilion”.

Princess

A square model, with four sharp corners. It is built on the same model as a  brilliant cut. In total, it has either 57 or 76 facets.

Emerald

Also known as “step cut diamond”. It is a rectangular model with cut corners.

Cushion

This modification of the brilliant model is a bit more square but with rounded corners.

Pear Shape

Just like the name indicates, this model is shaped in the form of the fruit.

Radiant

This diamond is rectangular shaped, with cut corners. Just like a brilliant cut diamond, it has between 62 and 70 facets.

Oval

An elliptical shaped diamond. Also from the facetted family, this diamond ranges between 56 and 58 facets.

Rose

The name derives from the facets, which mimic the petals of a rose. It has a flat bottom with the “rose petals” covering the surface of the diamond. Rose cuts diamonds can be found in many shapes (oval, marquise, …)

Marquise Cut

An almond-shaped diamond. Also called Navette diamond, meaning “small ship” in French. Has about 56facets.

Heart Shape

This is a modified version of the brilliant cut, in the form of a heart. Because of it’s many reflections, it is harder to determine the color of the stone. Has between 56-58 facets.

GEMOLOGICAL LABORATORIES

Some diamonds are being certified by one of the three leading diamond certification laboratories. Mostly white diamonds are being certified. On demand we can have any diamond certified, but these will cost extra. Contact us for more information on the exact price.

International Gemological Institute (IGI):

https://www.igi.org/home/index

Hoge Raad voor Diamant (HRD):

https://www.hrdantwerp.com/en

Gemological Institute of America (GIA):

https://4cs.gia.edu/en-us/